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"Atmospherics after dark Noise and voices from the past Across the dial from Moscow to Cologne Interference in the night Thousand miles on either side Stations fading into the unknown..." (Tom Robinson, "Atmospherics") |
QTH: Rotterdam JO21GW / Benoni KG43DT QRV: @ PI3RTD, 145.6125MHz, @ZS6HVB, 145.7875MHz Packet: ZS6TMV@ZS0MEE.SRJ.GAU.ZAF.AF Clubs: VERON Rotterdam, Highveld Amateur Radio Club |
To me the best part of ham radio is building my own gear,
and converting old equipment for amateur use. I get my kicks out of making
contacts with simple equipment.
And of course it's fascinating to dial across the shortwave bands and hear
some faint, far away radio station through the noise and the fading, from
God knows how many thousands of miles away. I remember sitting in the dark
one winter evening with a small portable Sony world receiver, listening to
the Solomon Islands Broadcasting Company coming loud and crystal-clear out of
the speaker.
Unfortunately I have little time for building and even less to make my
projects available on these web pages. So this is still a little rudimentary.
Bear with me. I'll get around to it one of these days... HI.
The Bosch KF161 is a mobile radio that can be easily converted to the
2 meter band. The design dates back from the early 70's as far as I know,
and the receiver could be more sensitive. Also, the noise gate that drives
the squelch leaves something to be desired. Still it's a very sturdy
radio that you can usually get for a song.
The KF161 uses a PLL synthesizer that reads two divider bytes from a ROM.
The ROM holds up to ten dividers, e.g. ten channels, which are selected by
the ten-position selector switch on the front panel. This limits the radio
to 10 channels.
Converting the set to amateur use involves re-tuning it for use in the
144-146 MHz band, and you will probably want more than 10 channels. This can
be done by supplying a range of suitable divider bytes to the corresponding
pins at the ROM socket. There are a few conversion kits available from
amateurs that do just that, usually by addressing a 2764 EPROM with thumb
switches or combining two of the front panel switches with the 10-position
dial (so you get 40 channels).
After trying a few of these kits, I decided to design my own. It had to be
a completely digital, 'clean' design (read: no R/C networks to introduce
dubious pulse delay times), with only one ribbon cable between the main
board the display unit. I wanted a rotating enoder for channel selection,
with no programmable logic except for a single EPROM to hold channel and
display data.
Here are a few pictures of the early prototype.
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| Mainboard. | Control board. |
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Mainboard connected to KF161. | Modified front panel. |
If one radio is good, more is always better. :-) I also have a Condor 16 and
a Condor 46. The Condor was developed by
Ascom for
PTT Telecom in the Netherlands in the early
1980s. Both models look identical. The Condor 16 is the VHF model, the Condor
46 is for UHF. Both models can be equipped with CTCSS and 5TVO tone locks, and
they put out about 10 Watts (the 46 can be made to put out a little more, the
16 generally feels happier with just a little bit less). I tend to reduce the
output power just a little, so that the finals aren't working at full load
and a mistake (i.e. disconnected or bad antenna cables) won't immediately blow
out one or more transistors. And two or three watts don't make all that much
difference
Converting these radios to the 2 meter and 70 cm amateur bands is not too complicated, and I haven't really made a project out of it. Conversion manuals can be found on various websites, and the pages of Jaap PA3EKI are a good starting point.
I first used the Yaesu "Frog 7" when I was working as a trainee
at the Delft Polytechnics University in the nineteen eighties, where it was
being used to receive telemetry signals from wave measuring buoys in the
27Mhz band. I liked it because it was much easier to use than the heavy and
horribly expensive RCA receiver we had as well, and it outperformed the RCA
in many applications. We even used it as a broacast receiver. OK, the FRG-7
is still a bit of a boat anchor by modern standards, but it's rugged without
being too heavy to handle easily.
A few years ago I saw one at a ham radio auction and bought it for a song.
It's not a Yaesu FRG-7, it's a Sommerkamp FRG-7. Yeah right. The brand decal
is the only difference.
Unfortunately the receiver didn't work. I opened it up and discovered that
some thick-fingered idiot had tried to re-tune it, apparently using a steel
screwdriver and brute force. Most of the ferrite cores on the RF board were
broken, and the ones still intact were grossly misaligned.
I managed to salvage all the broken ferrite cores but one. I replaced the
final one with a core I had lying around. I had to do some experimenting to
find the right ferrite (not all ferrites are created equal) and I went through
quite a few before I found one that give me the right Q. One run through the
entire alignment procedure later, the receiver performed like new. It's
accurate, sensitive, easy to use and a pleasure to listen to. OK, you need
three hands to operate it, and it takes one switch and three knobs to switch
bands, but that's never bothered me. Also it's not as selective and sensitive
as a modern receiver with a GaAs-FET front end and a DSP unit, but on the
other hand I can service this box with a screw driver and a soldering iron,
so it's bound to be around in my shack until the sky falls down.
The most intersting thing about the FRG-7 is its design principle. Instead of
a PLL, it uses a Wadley loop,
a rather clever method to mix harmonics from a fixed-frequency Xtal oscillator
with the incoming signal and the local oscillator, thereby achieving the Xtal
frequency stability of a PLL, without actually using a PLL!
More info on the FRG-7 (including the manual and schematics) can be found at
Kent Walker's FRG-7 page.
If you own a Yaesu FT-100, like I do, you will have realized that the
manual doesn't cover everything. There are countless tips and tricks,
necessary modifications (!) and service menu settings that you need to get
the radio to work properly at all times.
I have compiled a number of these undocumented features into a single document.
Most of these are available on the web somewhere, but I've lost track of
what came from where so I can't give proper credit to everyone.
You can download "The Yaesu
FT-100 Undocumented" for free.
Just for my own convenience I like to have the user manual (the official one, supplied by Yaesu) for my FT-100 available online, so that I can always get to it when I need it. So I keep it here.
My other commercial radio is a Kenwood handheld, the TH-F7E. This is a
very small radio that offers 5 Watts on both 2m and 70cm, two
simultaneous receivers, one of which is an all mode full coverage one (100KHz
to 1300MHz) in something only slightly larger than a pack of cigarettes.
It's positively loaded with features and it can even do 9600bps packet
radio. Of course it has its disadvantages, the most important one is a total
lack of any front end selectivity whatsoever. But that is to be expected with
such a small radio. A good front end requires properly dimensioned coils and
capacitors, and you simply can't put a filter like that in so small a box.
So the TH-F7E is very sensitive to out-of-band signals and QRM in general.
But the radio's versatility more than makes up for that, and switching on
the built-in attenuator often helps a lot.
Again I like to have access to the manual for this radio at all times. So just like the one for the FT-100, I keep this one here, plus the documentation for the communication protocol for this radio.
Frits Geerligs PA0FRI has some very interesting ham projects on his web
pages, most noticably a few nice tube linears. Partly in Dutch.
URL: www.pa0fri.geerligs.com/
Makamoto Mori JE3HHT has created some excellent ham radio software,
including MMSSTV and MMTTY. Working digital modes is, especially due to the
good DSP routines in Mako's software, very simple indeed.
URL: mmhamsoft.ham-radio.ch/